Saturday, May 15, 2010

new contact

Hi everyone,
I had my cell phone stolen at the end of march. My new number is 59798168 (country code 266) Sorry I havent blogged for awhile, but I will get back into it within the next few weeks.
Merrill

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Pictures

Khotso!!! I finally got some of the pictures from the November HIV/AIDs outreach event in Ha Mohatlane posted. But maybe only half of them. I'll keep working on it. (downloading stuff is really, really, hard here!!!) Thank you so much for all of your support. Oak Hills, thanks for all of the art supplies. They proved to be a great learning tool for the kids. (unfortunately I haven't got the art pics posted yet... I'll keep at it)

What's going on.... so much. Last week, I volunteered in the local secondary school and vocational school to teach life skills for the entire quarter. 2 form A classes,(8th grade) 1 form B (9th grade), 1 form C(10th grade), and a vocational class(16-30).Im having one of my youth teach with me, so that maybe when we are finished with the quarter, she'll be able to do it herself. Something sustainable I hope!!! With my NGO, Im not doing much... In a couple of weeks I will bring in an AG PCV to come in and advise my NGO about agriculture and income generation. For those of you who know me, I know nothing about ag. I had a cactus once and killed it:) My NGO feels like they are unable to continue with the funding that had been supporting my project, so I spent some time in december with my youth and a great trainer from the NGO going to villages telling them we werent coming back. This was very, very hard. My NGO has had a difficult time over the last 9 months out in my village(beginning with my supervisor dying)so for them I guess they are doing what they feel is in everyones best interests. Things have also been difficult for Peace Corps Lesotho as there have been many leadership changes. But, in the last few months my group has gotten a new APCD. (who seems like a great guy) We are getting a new country director in a few weeks, (she has already come out for a couple of week visit and seems like she will be a good, strong leader)So, hopefully very soon I will be able to receive some desparately needed PC support to help me sort out this situation. I can keep busy doing stuff, but I want to feel like Im making a contribution to my NGO (cause I know they care and I like them very much!!!) As a Peace Corps volunteer, you usually try to tough out problems and solve them yourselves. Or, as we were correctly told during our training "we are our own best resources." I agree with this, so Im feeling like Im somehow failing by honestly admitting that I really need PC support with this sooner rather than later.

Other news... Im just finishing my Peace Corps report for the last quarter and realized a lot has gone on. We finally had this big event out in my village... and it went well. Kids learned alot about HIV/AIDs and had a great time. I was able to go to several schools and teach life skills to kids, ages 8-25. They learned a lot and I had a blast. I got mugged for the second time in maseru which makes me now pretty nervous when Im in Maseru. The Police were...less than responsive. But Peace Corps was wonderful.

A great thing happened and I was able to conduct a teachers workshop re: life skills during the school break. It was great to work with some teachers who were really interested. I was very busy through the end of nov with my NGO educating the older residents in the villages about HIV/AIDs and saw some great discussions going on. My group had its halfway reconnect and we had our all volunteer conference... both of which were necessary, but somewhat stressful (mostly because of all the changes in Peace corps that began last June)

One of my favorite kids in the entire world was beaten within an inch of his life (if you saw him, you wouldnt think someone could have been beaten that badly and live) and spent 13 days in a coma and remains seriously brain damaged. But a couple of really incredibally wonderful peace corps staff have shown their support.One person...getting him some medical help he wasnt getting, and now getting him into seeing a neurologist in South Africa who can properly assess his brain injury and give us an idea of what we can do to help. Another PC staff offering to take him to S. Africa if needed and help raise the money for the appointment... kindness and love coming out in such wonderful ways.

Im working with the diversity committee on our upcoming, all lowlands diversity camp in early march to be held at my NGO. There will be some great panels and discussions for 60 youth. Im excited about that. And, teaching lifeskills this quarter to 5 classes and training basotho to do it. That's a good thing (and needed), but Im sad it's not with my NGO (one form A class Im teaching has 74 students and 20 desks built for 2... and a leaky tin roof. 4 kids to many desks...crazy)

Will I stay an extra year or go home? I haven't quite made up my mind yet. While some great stuff has happened this last quarter, there's also been a lot of discouraging stuff and my heart is a bit heavy right now. But, Ive learned so much and think there's more I can do to help. We'll see. I'll decide very soon and let you know.

Thanks again for all of your support. Have a great 2010!!!!

Salang hantle. (stay well)

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

TOGETHER WE CAN, or... better than slice bread

Hi everyone,

Its almost Thanksgiving... that's hard to remember for me cause it's getting so hot. So the big HIV/Aids outreach event happened... It was Nov. 7th. There was soccer,an art and drama competition. Hundreds of kids showed up, 7 other pcv's came to help,a bunch of people from my NGO Lesotho Durham Link came and helped...it was crazy... in a good way!!!! Will post pics within a few weeks (i hope)Here's how it went:

11/06/09
10:00am: I met my Peer promoters in TY for the final shopping of food and supplies. One business didn't come through on the soccer balls we promised to schools. They did have the pumps, but with no needles. The Peer promoters dealt with most of it and kept me from screaming... or something worse.

2pm: Ntate Martin, a trainer from LDL came in a truck, helping us to transport everything to Ha Mohtlane, including stopping to pick up the tents we rented. Martin is an angel

3pm:Meeting supposed to start with 20 Peer educators who are volunteering to help. No one here.

3:30 ....no one here

3:45. 12 peer educators here. Peer promoters run the meeting, assign jobs, reimburse transport.... Peer promoters rock!!!

4:30. Youth walk down to the soccer pitch to line it and divide it up into 4 fields. Peer promoters and educators rock!!!

4:30-6. PCV's come and start helping to prep for next day. 590 loaves of bread were delivered to Ha Mohatlane for lunch for the kids at the event. Their were clear directions (in sesotho) to bring sliced loaves of bread. 200 loaves are unsliced.

7:00: Spaghetti dinner served to peer promoters and PCV's. The pasta got forgotten while cooking and was one lump.. (...Oscar...) But, sauce that Oz made was so good, and we were so hungry, it all go eaten

8-12:30 Lunches for kids prepped. Hours and hours spent slicing 200 loaves of bread.. only one bread knife

12:30. All PCV's plead exhaustion and go to bed. Bread not finished being sliced. Everyone still joking... for now

11/07/09 4:30 am. I lay in my sleeping bag listening to a torrential downpour. REALLY? Give me a break... thinking about crying and hiding in my sleeping bag. Maybe no one will see me

5:30. Serve breakfast to all. Everyone says "don't worry, the rain will stop" Im not sure. I stand outside in the rain looking. The sky is one solid mass of grey/black.

6:00 Rain stops.

7:00 Martin shows up and we move tables chairs, tents, art supplies.... out to the pitch. Everything sets up quickly...

8:00 All schools supposed to be here to register...

815 First school shows up

8:45 Rest of the schools show up. Registration is a nightmare. Kids coming from every direction. If it weren't for Oscar, Elizabeth and Teboho.... trying to decide if I can still hide in my sleeping bag

9:00 Event supposed to start

10:00 Event starts. We have a dj (thanks Martin) sound equipment... people pouring in.
10:15-1. Soccer tournament (5 on 5) and art competition get under ways. Kids play really hard (barefooted, hurts my feet to watch) Art competition going well... kids love to do art

10:30: A bunch of people go back to the house to finish lunch and slicing the damn bread. Thank goodness it wasn't me. Thanks Teboho!!

11:00 Face painting breaks out near the art tent. I was sat down and an elaborate, multicolored "disco" is painted on my face. Appropriate, cause anyone who knows me knows my passion for dancing!!!!

1230-130 Lunch. We fed the participants. They loved that. A lot of little primary school kids lined up looking sad, skinny and hungry hoping we had extras. This was the worst moment for me Ive had in many months. If it had been up to me, I would've given them all the food, and the participants who hadn't eaten yet would have found nothing. Thanks Teboho

2:00 The wonderful Masotho man who was conducting the free testing and counseling left. He ran out of supplies. The response for people getting tested was unusually overwhelming. Sometimes, people are afraid of being seen going into the tents..It was wonderful that so many tested.

2:00 Drama competition supposed to start.

3-430: Drama competition. Everyone stayed. The drama and art were all around the theme of how Hiv/Aids effects your community. The kids were all prepared and did a great job. So many people learned so much!

5:00 Event supposed to end

5:00-6: Awards given out (the kids were so excited over hearing their names and receiving certificates)Thank you's said from Lesotho Durham Link and the man representing the chief of the village.

6:00 PCV's with trash bags picked up all the trash on the field. Little kids running up to all of us with their little fists full of trash wanting to help

6-7:15 Tents broken down, everything moved back to the house

8:00 BRAII (b-b-que) Peer promoters and PCVs demolished 6 kilograms of chicken. Thanks Vic for cooking!!! (everyone knows that b-b-que is a guys job:))

9:00 All receipts collected from peer promoters

915: Taking advantage of a generator... watching John Grisham film

9:30 Everyone asleep in chairs, on the floor

11/08/09

8:00 People stagger up.. French toast and fruit for breakfast

11:00 Everyone goes home!!!

It was a good day, with some good (and I hope sustainable) results. A special thanks to PCV's Brice,Jackie, Andre, Karolina, Oscar, Vic and Sejake... thanks you guys, couldn't have done it without you!!. Thanks to David and Elizabeth, missionaries from England who came and worked so hard and kept me laughing. Thanks to Ntate Martin for....everything!!! Thanks to Oak Hills church for all of the art supplies. The kids were so happy!!!Thanks to Ntate Stephen and Lesotho Durham Link for all of their help and support. And especially, thanks to Polo, Masontaha, Teboho and Lebuse.... you guys did it!!! You planned it, ran it... it was beautiful and so are you!!!!.

Again, pics in a few weeks. Thanks everyone for all the support and prayers. Have a great Thanksgiving
Salang Hantle!

Love
Merrill

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Things I thought I'd never get used to... but did (and sometimes even enjoy)

Hi everyone.

Im in town for the quarterly VAC meeting. (volunteer advisory committee) Its been a really busy last few months, which is good.. to a point. Im getting really tired and after my nov 7th event next weekend (and all the reporting that goes with it) I plan to take a break. Im not sure what exactly. Maybe a day in bed reading, or hopping over to South Africa to Ladybrand for one slow afternoon to go to an awesome coffee shop called Living Life that has wonderful food and actual customer service. In December, I may go to Swaziland for a few days. There have been some extra challanges the last month and Im feeling a big pull to get out of the country for a bit. We'll see.

When I got off the Kombi this morning for the 30 minute walk to the Peace Corps training center this morning, I was noticing things and wondering about the fact that the things that just made me stop and start 17 months ago, I don't even notice any more (at least not too much) So I thought Id bore you and share the things that I thought I'd never get used to, but did:

-The sight of my family gathering cow poop to form into patties and dry them on the hill to use for fuel (and the smell that goes along with cooking with cow patties)
-Myself using cow patties to braii with (bar-b-que)
-27 people traveling together in a 15 seater Kombi
-toddlers naked from the waist down being put on my lap in Kombis
-live chickens on kombis
-toddlers running around naked and stopping anywhere to squat and poop
-Hauling water from 20 minutes away.
-Not bathing for ____ days because Im too lazy to haul water.
-Going to bed in the winter as soon as it gets dark in order to stay warm
-jumping up and down everytime I get a letter or package
-Being anxious and looking over my shoulder everytime I come into Maseru. (recently got mugged for the second time.. no fun)
-Maseru police not caring when someone mugs you and not even wanting to open a report. (unfortunately, I am getting used to that)
-Tab... (remember Tab?)
-Sitting outside my rondavel with my family in the winter, turning the chair to stay in the sun and keeping warm
-Having the cutest Basotho children in my rondavel to draw
-Marriage proposals from under 25 year old herd boys.
-Marriage proposals from over 25 year old herd boys.
-Papa and moroho (vegies)
-Papa and nama (meat)
-just papa... and more papa
-kids asking for candy and money
-people pointing and saying "lakhooa, lakhooa" (white person)
-hot russians from street vendors covered in vinegar
-really fun basotho youth who like to talk and dont even know what email is.

Just a few random thoughts. I hope all is well in America. Ill be back to email in a few weeks. Ill try and post pics from the event. Im also updating my wish list.. several people asked for me to do this.. but remember, letters, phone calls and emails rock!!!
Salang Hantle
Merrill

NOVEMBER 7th

Next Saturday, after months of planning, my youth and I are hosting an HIV/AIDs outreach day in the village Ha Mohatlane. There are 9 primary and secondary schools who are attending. It 9-5 and will include a soccer tournament,free HIV/AIDs testing and counselling, dancing, (which my youth say I must participate in)art and drama competition all around the theme "How HIV affects me and my community." It is different planning a big event here. Here are a few of the things that have happened.. both good and not so good.

Not so good: The funding for this event is coming from an American grant. Because of the dollar dropping so much over the last 6 months, by the time the grant was approved we received 3000 rand less than was originally approved... and prices here are not going down. I have spent 13 hours in the band trying to work out getting the ATM card to work for the account the money was deposited in. No good as of today. And, since the account was on the same card as my personal account, I have not had ATM access to the grant or my own account for over a month... (and, everytime I have to come to the bank in Maseru to try to fix it costs me an entire day, between time waiting and public transport) We are giving every school participating 2 soccer balls and a pump. The business we gave the money to 6 weeks ago (we put half down) yesterday told me it would be 20 rand more per ball. 20 rand times 16 balls... with 3000 rand less budget.. and here there is no manager to talk to, no recourse... ah...

The good stuff: 4 peer promoters who are doing this for free and working harder than I've seen a volunteer work on a project. For example, walking to 8 villages, 3 times to deal with principals, teachers and students, and one day in the torrential rain that only seems to come to Lesotho to make sure that every kid has a chance to participate. Oak Hills Church in California sent us a ton of really good art supplies that you can't get here, so that kids can learn about HIV/AIDs through art. 16 people from my NGO, Lesotho Durham Link, all volunteering to come out to help. 20 peer educators from surrounding villages and 7 other peace corps volunteers coming to help and support. It's really an amazing thing.

So like everywhere else in the world, both good things and headaches for this event. But different good and bad stuff... its been quite a learning experience.

Hopefully, all will go well and the kids will learn alot. I've said it before, but it bears repeating. Lesotho has the highest rate of AIDs in Africa, and the third highest in the world. So hopefully, the kids will have fun,learn something and grow up to be adults who can help Lesotho.

Thanks for all your support!!! Pray for no rain.

Salang Hantle (stay well)
Merrill

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Changes

Hi everyone.

Im in Maseru for my groups mid service training. ("reconnect") My last boss (apcd) left at the beginning of June. She was finally replaced by a new guy... transfered over from Guyana. Big move! Seems like a good guy. Our CD (country director) is leaving as of today to be the country director of Uganda. No replacement yet. So my new APCD is the acting country director until a replacement comes. Welcome to Lesotho.

Things are going well!!! We just had a "speak aloud" in my district of Berea. Speak alouds are focusing on gender issues and HIV/Aids. It went well. The youth had a good time and good discussion was generated. On Nov 7th, my youth group is hosting a big, 8 village targeted HIV/Aids outreach. There will be a soccer tournament, arts competition, free testing and counseling, teaching through drama and music... Thank you so much Oak HIlls church! They are sending us a bunch of art supplies, which are very difficult to get here. Kids in Lesotho love to do art. They don't normally get to do it. It should be fun!!!

Gotta go home today. Yea! The last thing... I got a couple of packages from home yesterday. Everything was great. In one of them was a beautiful quilt made by the kids at River Rock. It made me cry. You guys are wonderful. Thanks so much!!

Salang Hantle (stay well)
Merrill

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Bitso Lebe

KHOTSO
Recently I traveled to Emile’s site at Ha Makhoroana (an education Peace Corps Volunteer) to teach some life skills to some of her kids and teachers. It was a lot of fun, Emile was very hospitable and the area she lives in is remote and beautiful. For dinner one night, Emile decided to splurge and make us chicken. We cooked it on a braii (bar-b-que) There were very few briquettes and try as we might, we could not get a good fire started. Emile’s ausi (sister) came to the rescue. She went into the field next to us where the cattle graze during the day and got us some good, old fashioned cow patties. Yes that’s right. She scooped up the cow poop, put it in the braii and lit it and….. mmm, mmm good!!

Behind her house is a really beautiful mountain. She’s at the base of it. Its called “Mosono” hill. (Emily did say it could be Monoso, so for those Sesotho speakers out there, sorry. Its not a Sesotho word I use much) which means “clitoris hill.” Now this is a word that the local villagers do not like to use, so instead, they call it “bitso lebe,” which means: “ugly name.” So it’s “ugly name hill.” And, at the base of the hill, there’s a primary school with the name of “Bitso Lebe Primary School.” How would you like to go there? Thanks Emile for your hospitality and for letting me do a little work at your school. It was a lot of fun!

Things are going pretty well. My NGO, Lesotho Durham Link is doing some good work with my youth out in my catchment area around Ha Mohatlane. The youth rock!! I’m still teaching English a couple of mornings a week at the local secondary school. I subversively slip in life skills and other exercises which will encourage them to express opinions and initiate things. We have a speak aloud coming up in our district of Berea in a couple of weeks. It is geared towards youth and is all about gender issues here. Next week I’m traveling to the district of Mafeteng to help out with an HIV/Aids outreach day there. And, the youth with hopefully only minimal guidance (interference) by me are planning a big HIV/Aids, stigma, testing day, sports, arts competition on Nov 7th. The name of it is “Together We Can.” (they picked out the name, not me… really!) Its targeted towards 8 villages in the area. The youth are learning how to plan/organize/run a big event…

Life is good here. Only one minor blip recently. I got mugged here in Maseru when I was in town a couple of weeks ago. I was walking back to the training center where PCV’s stay and a man stopped me and told me to give him money or he would stab me. (he had a really large knife) I gave him the change in my pocket. He then said “give me notes or I will kill you.” I froze cause he looked pretty scary at this point. A side note: Here in Lesotho we are told (women) to keep valuables in “the mountains” (your bra) because men wont reach down there to rob you. Not true. He put his hand down my shirt, looking for money. I reacted, pushed him away and started screaming my head off. He came back at me, but stopped, turned around and ran. A couple of Bo-‘M’e were running up behind me. Yeah Bo-‘M’e!!! They walked me the rest of the way to the training center. I called Peace Corps and they were very supportive and wonderful. They took me to the police station the next day to file a report. The police didn’t want to do a report because the man didn’t get much robbery. They didn’t care about the knife or anything else. Very disappointing. They didn’t even want a description of the guy.
Other than that, things really are good here. Winter is letting good and spring is coming. Chilly mornings and warmer days. The peach trees are all blossoming. Things are going to turn green any second, I can feel it Work and home is good. I’m not missing America too much, but I’m missing all of you!! Someone please sit down at Starbucks, have a grande, extra hot, non-fat, sugar free vanilla latte for me, while reading the Sunday paper cover to cover and than sitting down to lunch with a person or two, just to talk and catch up. Ahhh…..

Have a great rest of the summer. I’m thinking about you all.

Salang Hantle!

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Inspiration

This is the you tube address to a Paul Farmer video about health care and poverty. It's only a little over 3 minutes and well worth the watch. Sometimes, I wonder how much can really be done here that is truly sustainable.This re charged and inspired me. Hope you are all well.

Salang Hantle!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJpZnUjtorI

Sunday, June 21, 2009

ANNIVERSARY... One year

I've hit my one year anniversary. Its hard to believe. Im glad Im still here, but I wouldn't say its been a lot of fun.Im beginning another cold African winter and reflecting on what Ive learned over the course of a year. I've learned that American culture and Basotho culture is so different, that problems will arise no matter how hard I or my Basotho friends and colleagues try. Ive learned that thatched roofs are warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer than tin roofs. I've learned that mud dung walls are great because you can put thumb tacks in it to hang things up. I've learned that cats are the only sure fire cure for rats... but if as soon as the cat is gone, the rat comes back. I've learned that religion in Africa is practiced way differently than religion in America. I've learned people who are beaten down as children, grow up to beat down other children. I've learned that you sound better playing the guitar in the dark. I've learned that candles put out just enough light to write letters to the people you love. I've learned that a hug from a child (or sometimes an adult) can completely change your week. I've learned that while beating is effective to obtain obedience from children, it is completely uneffective to encourage children to initiate and think creatively. I've learned that I have acquired the confidence to try anything. I've learned that it's ok to fail, but never to give up. Ive learned that despite our extreme cultural differences, we all share hopes, dreams and our mutual humanity.

In this last year, my counterpart, my 2 favorite little kids and my supervisor have died. In this last year I have started a youth group, trained peer promoters, taught secondary school, hosted events, met volunteers from all over America and have become close to several Basotho youth, who have taught me more than I have taught them. Year 2 begins and I have plans for the next 15 months, but I have learned not to count on anything and be open to whatever happens. I am not in control here, and that is a really good thing. I've noticed that amazing things happen when Im not so stuck in my "plans" and leave room for things/ people to evolve.

Yesterday, I went to my supervisors funeral. It was an Anglican service, combined with traditional Basotho culture. It was a long service, with many people who were involved of each aspect of my supervisors life, delivering eulogies. And in between each eulogy, was singing. Either traditional music or hymns in sesotho. One of the last songs was "joy to the world" in sesotho, sung in a very slow, sad and beautiful manner. It was a reminder of home and somewhat bitter sweet. After the service, everyone went to the cemetary. The casket was lowered into the ground,with a freshly slaughtered animal skin put on top of it, while the Basotho men took turns filling in the grave. Everyone sang during this part. The singing turned from sad to joy filled, with dancing at the same time. By the time the burial was over, there seemed to be a certain amount of closure. A lesson to be learned perhaps?

It was a sad day. Sad to me because my supervisor suffered through a long sickness without talking to people about it. He suffered alone. His choice, but still sad. I hope that he is resting in peace.

In May, I hosted a diversity camp in my district of Berea.There is not much diversity in Lesotho (98% of Lesotho are black basotho) Speakers at camp covered issues such as HIV/AIDs and the stigma associated with it, the dislike between the Chinese and the Basotho, homosexuality, actually living with HIV.... all the speakers were wonderful and got the students really talking, thinking and asking questions. Anytime you can get students here to do that, its a success.

Im helping a little bit with training the new CHED group who has been here 2 weeks.There are 16 of them, one married couple and all seem pretty wonderful. Most of the sessions Im assisting with have to do with working with youth here. Next weekend, we will be taking 2 or three of them home with us for 4 days so they can get a very small taste of what its like.

In August, I will be helping with a "Speak aloud" in my district, which works with students and deals with gender issues. The youth group will continue to teach and hopefully have fun. We just went on a field trip to a local farmer who uses irrigation for his farm (very rare here) grows only the crops that no one else does and are in high demand in the city, and is about to make his live stock free range... which will satisfy a huge market in Maseru, and as he says "make his pigs really happy."

Ok, that's it for now. I hope all is well in America. Let me know how you are all doing at home.

Salang hantle
Merrill

Monday, April 13, 2009

New pictures

So after trying 5 times over several weeks, I switched from photobucket to flickr for the photo thing. It took way too long, and I didn't get several pics up, but its a start. If you click on one of the pictures it will take you to flickr, and then go to Lesotho, april 2009. With photobucket, they just aren't uploading right now. Internet in a developing country...

Im in maseru right now. Celebrated Easter with a few friends at the training center. We took advantage of the refrigerators and electricity and actually cooked a nice dinner. Im going to be very busy for the next 6 weeks, working at Ha Mohatlane to make sure that the library is ready for the books that are coming, going to different sites to help with youth, and hosting a diversity camp on May 23 in TY. More on all of that later.. along with pictures. I hope.

I hope you all had a great Easter, and I'll talk with you all soon. With more details of life in Lesotho.

Salang Hantle

HIV/AIDs day


HIV/AIDs day
Originally uploaded by cubbies2003

competitions on moshoeshoe day

Note the bare feet on the tracks of rock and glass

friends


friends
Originally uploaded by cubbies2003
Moshoeshoe day at Ha Mohatlane

New Peer educators at Ha Bale


99
Originally uploaded by cubbies2003

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Winter is coming.

Its still hot during the day here in the lowlands, but at night a chill is in the air and you know that winter is coming soon. I came to Lesotho at a good time. My group came in the winter, and we were in training, so Peace Corps paid for all of the gas to heat our little houses. And it was still cold. This year, we are on our own, which means many, many layers of clothing as gas is very expensive. It builds character:)

Work is going well. My youth group of peer promoters has been going to different villages training new peer educators. Some days we will spend 4-6 hours walking to villages through really beautiful mountains, getting to talk to the villagers who are off the beaten path. I even had a herd boy offer me lebola (bride price) to marry me. I thought about it. He's 23. I figured the 22 year age difference would make for good late night cultural exchanges! But as I thought about it, I considered the question of: who would receive the lebola? Would it be the head of the family I live with? Would it be someone Im close to back home? And if that were the case, would the herd boy pay for shipping? (which has gotta cost a lot) Or perhaps he could just convert the cattle to cold, hard american dollars.But then, the youth who were with me told me that the price the herd boy offered was just too low.He offered something like 6 cows, 4 sheep, some donkey, etc... The youth said that since I was a foreigner and Im "exotic" Im worth at least 40 head of cattle... I dont know, too complicated for me I think. So I guess I have to pass.

I've been hearing a lot lately from home about the financial situation. People losing their jobs and homes, businesses closing...As our country director says, "its probably a good time to be in grad school or Peace Corps" The way things are affected here is even less jobs to be had (there weren't that many to begin with) and food prices going way up. How that translates for many villagers I know is eating 1 meal a day (or some days 0) as compared to 2 meals a day. And yet with the added suffering, it is always humbling to watch people find joy in there lives as they go on day to day trying to survive.

Life is basically good here. Its exciting when a young person gets it, gets excited and shares it with others.But, there is always craziness here, and Im going to share a crazy public transport story. I was on a Kombi coming from the local camptown of TY back to my village of Ha Nkalimeng. It was one of those times where a lot of kids were coming back from school and there were 26 on a 15 passenger kombi. The kids get crammed in every possible corner, on top of each other. Very dangerous. I was sitting closest to the door and a little girl was kneeling across from me. The kombi driver was driving even more crazy than usual was playing chicken with other cars, passing at scary speeds on the shoulder etc... the conductor was behind me and was playing at opening and shutting the door.Some of the women were beginning to say stuff to the conductor, but he wasn't listening. So we whipped around one particular corner way too fast, the door (a sliding one) flew open and the little girl start to fall out the door. I grabbed the back of her sweater, pulled her in and had a few choice words to say to the conductor with the little girl cling to my neck crying hysterically and everyone in the kombi silent. It wasnt pretty. This kid wouldve died if she had gone out the door. It was really scary and made me appreciate public transport in the states!!! I guess its moments like those when I want to escape all of this.... but then the people here can't escape and I know that I need to stay and see it through.

Enough for now. Ive been trying to download a bunch of pictures and it wont do it, so I will try next time I get to internet. I hope you are all having a good spring. Go Dodgers!!! (I mean Cubs... oops, what was I thinking)
Salang Hantle
Merrill